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The John Lobb brand is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines heritage designs with subtle refinements. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen double monks gained elongated straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah sneakers, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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